![]() ![]() Set the camera to not shoot if no SD or CF card is present.Set back button for focus (functionality of half shutter press is transferred to back button).Turn off AF beep when using live view (on Canon).If the lens has ‘image stabilization’ or ‘vibration reduction’ turn it OFF (usually a switch on the lens itself.).If using zoom lens set the focal distance to one end of the other of the focal length and tape it down with painters’ tape.Turn off sensor cleaning on power down (if the camera shakes the sensor to remove dust on power down).Turn off GPS (you can take some photos with the GPS later if desired).Set mode to Manual or (For beginners, try using Aperture priority-AV on a Canon or A on a Nikon).The following steps will help you set up your camera to produce the crispest image possible with accurate color representation. It is important to have a general understanding of how different settings on your DSLR camera can impact your photographs. This means both taking photos of the object from the same position every time (you’ll change the height of the camera at least three times to take 3 circuits of photos) so that the object is consistently framed in the photograph and adjusting the settings on your camera so that the color, focus, capture settings are the same for every photo. Step 2: Get to know the settings on your cameraįor high quality results, you want to take every photo with exactly the same camera settings so the photographs are consistent when you start working with them in Metashape. We will be processing the photos using a program called Agisoft Metashape Pro. Optional: black pedestal for your object.Lighting: we like photographers LED lights on tripods that you can move around, add light filters etc.Black background and base (ideally photographers black drop cloth, or felt if necessary).White Light box: this will diffuse the light so you don’t get harsh shadows.Optional: lint roller (to clean the black backdrop if necessary).If you have a good prime fixed-zoom lens within 24-70mm range, use it! A polarized lens cover will also help to reduce glare if your object has a shiny surface. They can produce very high quality photographs because they minimize noise and distortion, resulting in an extra sharp image. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length: you cannot zoom. Higher numbered lenses have less distortion but are also much more expensive. Do not use fisheye or wide-angle lenses because they cause too much distortion. The wider a lens (lower mm number), the more you are able to capture in a photo, however with a 24 mm lens or lower you’ll start to see distortion around at the edges of your frame. ![]() Lenses are measured based on focal length (the number before the mm on your lens). If you plan to use photogrammetry to record quantitative data, a DSLR camera is required. This doesn’t mean you can’t do photogrammetry with a point-and-shoot or your phone’s camera, but the quality will be that much better if you use a good DSLR camera. The goal is to have a set of the clearest photos possible, which means using a camera and lens that have a manual mode where you can adjust the camera’s aperture, focus, white balance, and ISO to fit your lighting environment. Photogrammetry, at its core, is a photographic project. ![]() Step 1: Equipment choice and setting up your photo station Equipment If you want to create a quick and less accurate model or you are working in the field or with a collection where you can’t bring the physical object to Clemons, check out my posting on photogrammetry in the field with your smart phone. In this blog posting I go through the workflow to create a high quality, scaled model using our photogrammetry station in the Robertson Media Center on the third floor of Clemons Library and computer software called Agisoft Metashape (previously Photoscan). your pet hamster or your best friend’s head). Light is critical to this process and therefore there are certain objects that are difficult, if not impossible, to model using photogrammetry: objects with reflective or shiny surfaces, clear/transparent objects like glass, very thin objects like tree leaves, very furry or hairy things, things that move (e.g. Basically, you take a bunch of pictures at different angles of an object, run all the photos through a computer program called Metashape, and you end up with a very cool digital 3D object at the end! The Smithsonian 3D Digitization has a whole collection of 3D models online you can browse from artifacts to structures to in-situ burials. What is Photogrammetry? Photogrammetry is a photographic process that generates 3D data (measurements) from 2D images (photographs) to create a 3D model with accurate color and texture.
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